ADAMS RIB Restaurant Review – It’s All About The Ribs
Perched on a first floor of a corner building on Shaftsbury Avenue, just behind the Trocadero and offering panoramic views of one of the most vibrant and frenetic areas in London...
rating: 2
Perched on a first floor of a corner building on Shaftsbury Avenue, just behind the Trocadero and offering panoramic views of one of the most vibrant and frenetic areas in London to the right Piccadilly Circus, to the left Chinatown and a hub of the theatre district this has been the home of Adams Rib for the past five years. Previously at the most coveted address in England, 1 Leicester Square, they continue to cater to central London regulars and hungry tourists, what the manager and staff proudly proclaim numerous times the best ribs in London. I have eaten some great ribs in my journeys and adventures in American restaurants in London, so Im a mix between dubious and excited by this claim. But I remember visiting Adams Rib years ago as a child and the experience holds nothing but wondrous, childhood memories; so I am enthusiastic. Im not immediately welcomed by the blank expression o the managers face and rather peculiar pause he gives me when I tell him my name and say I have a reservation. But after a moment this passes and Im taken to the best seat in the house, which offers one of the best views of London I have ever seen. Im thirsty when arent I? A cocktail seems like a suitable tipple to match the vibrant ambience of this early evening meal and awesome view of London. What do you recommend? I ask. What do you like? I am asked. Whats your signature cocktail? I mean what would you drink if you came here? My dinner companion asks. It depends what kind of mood youre in, our host responds. It could continue this way all night, so we order a mojito and a Long Island iced tea. What we receive is a rum, lime, soda with a sprig of mint and a vodka and coke no presentation, no love, no real taste. The cocktail menu can be summed up by the former two and the latter is what I suspect describes all the cocktails, but having not tried them all I cannot substantiate this claim.
Moving on to starters, and its Crispy Mushrooms, Chilli Poppers and Nachos Grande, three staples of American cuisine that they have adopted from their Mexican neighbours and made their own, and restaurants in London have added their own twists to and made their own. The mushrooms and poppers arrive and look like something you would buy frozen and cook in the oven. But I dont take the first bite with my eyes, I take it with my mouth and let my taste buds do the talking and my fingers do the typing powered by my brain, of course. All agree that these are not what you want or would accept to receive in an American diner across either side of the pond; and if you did you would not be happy. The mushrooms are sub-par at best; the breadcrumbs are crunchy not crispy overcooked and flavourless; the mushroom is dry and raw on the outside, soggy on the inside and tastes like what one would imagine fungus to taste like. Yes Im aware a mushroom is a form of fungus, but Im referring to fungus in the derogative sense, like the kind you would find growing behind something. And the poppers arent much batter. The same comments about the breadcrumb batter applies; the jalapeno is absent without leave in half the poppers and the cheese was a bland, artificial form of dairy. Can you ruin nachos? Arguably no. Nachos with cheese melted over them is perfectly good eating and for that part Adams Rib succeeded. The nachos were warm and crunchy good here and the cheese tasty obviously a different kind used than in the poppers. However, to make this dish you need the following: great guacamole, sublime salsa and sour sour cream. The guac looked like it was from a tube a lime green form of sludge without texture, the salsa watery and tasting just of tomato juice and the cream just tasted like an unsweetened cream. For mains we go off the recommendations of the manager, a lovely lady who speaks volumes of the restaurant, the business and her input into the way it runs. We rely heavily on Japanese tourists and have a deal with a Japanese tour company. My friends stomach drops on these comments. Are they catering for regulars or are they swindling tourists? Im not quite so cynical not tonight anyway Im taken with this charming woman and her warmth and enthusiasm for American food. You must try the Carolina Chicken; that was my addition to the menu after we added it as a special and it proved so popular. One of them, please, I exclaim. Also recommended are their mixed meat fajita and the much ballyhooed ribs.
First up is the Carolina Chicken. Remember that boot Chaplin ate in the Gold Rush? Well the chicken breast isnt quite this bad, but does bring it to mind. A thin, dry, leathery piece of meat that a steak knife struggles to cut through topped with melted cheese and tiny pieces of tomato and mushroom tastes worse than it looks. Id like to ask someone from Carolina whether this is how its served in their hometown? Served with fries that are crunchy all the way through; theyre obviously frozen, completely bland and its rather insulting to be served them as part of a dish that costs over £10. The mixed meat fajita, however, is surprisingly good, far better than many Mexicans in the square mile. The steak was tender, the chicken thick and juicy, both superbly spiced with chilli, paprika and rosemary I believe which made this a really tasty dish. Sadly it was served with the infamous guac, salsa and (sour) cream that came with the nachos all were untouched but the meat was so flavoursome that they were not needed. Finally its the ribs, which had been built up so much they had to fall below expectations. And they did. But not just fell below, but fell off the cliff. The ribs are far and away the best item on the menu and they are to a good standard. The meat is tender and tasty and does indeed fall off the bone its the sign of a good rib. The barbecue sauce is sticky and the right blend between because spicy and sweet. And the Cajun spiced ribs are unique. They taste authentic and like something that you would get in the Deep South with the lime, figs, okra and onions all coming through. Sadly, there is hardly any meat on the bone. Charging over £10 for these ribs is outrageous considering what you can get for a comparable price elsewhere. Ten years ago, even five, they would have been noteworthy, but nowadays, with smokehouses around, offering thick, meaty, authentic American barbecued ribs, theyre just not impressive in the least. The management would be well advised to visit one of the American restaurants that we have visited as she could learn much about the quality of rib they are competing against. The key lime pie arrives and Im crestfallen before I have taken a bite - it is not key lime pie, but rather key lime cheesecake. This is a fault not exclusive to Adams Rib; why are British American restaurants not able to differentiate between these two forms of dessert? Its smooth and creamy, tangy and just a little tart. Its everything one would want from a lime cheesecake, but I dont want a lime cheesecake I was a key lime pie. The Knickerbocker glory is somewhat of a dying dessert, just cling to the glory it once knew. Quintessentially British, it is a surprise to see it on the menu of what is ostensibly an American restaurant. But dubbed as Adams Knickerbocker Glory I am hopeful of something special, worthy of carrying the Adams name. The ice cream was soft and creamy, the strawberry sauce sticky and sweet, but the fruit obviously tinned, and covered up with what might have been an entire spray can of whipped cream. If you like ice cream, fruit and really love whipped cream then you cant go wrong with a Knickerbocker glory. Though again, like everything on the menu, its grossly overpriced.
While the food is not up snuff, the staff are friendly, attentive and hugely proud of their food, which is sad and alarming at the same time. Nevertheless, staff that have pride in their work and their brand is invaluable and admirable. Its just a shame that their enthusiasm doesnt translate to the food and drink. If it did the Adams Rib could produce food that would befit the opulence of the location and its fantastic view. A three-course meal at Adams Rib will cost you from £25 - £35 excluding drinks and service charge. Adams Rib is located at 19-23 Shaftsbury Avenue, London W1D 7H. For more information or to book a table visit http://www.adams-rib.co.uk/ If you are a fan of Adams Rib and believe it to be the best American Restaurant in London, remember to register your vote when the polls open on 25/11/11.