MAXWELL’S Restauarant Review - Light The Fires & Lose The Belt!

For an enjoyable, indulgent and appetite destroying night out, Maxwell’s is your answer.

rating: 4

Situated seconds from Covent Garden, it is almost impossible to miss Maxwell€™s; if the neon red sign doesn€™t grab your attention then the blazing torches outside the entrance surely will. Inside a warm vibrant atmosphere awaits you; rather than taking the root that so many €˜American Restaurants€™ take by adorning every wall with a piece of ubiquitous American paraphernalia or photographs of American icons to create a sense that you have been transported to America, Maxwell€™s takes a more subtle approach. Dark mahogany, large tables and comfy booths and dimmed lighting are employed to create a cool environment, perfectly suited for all occasions. However, I was unconvinced by the mural that depicts some of the world€™s most recognisable people - Margaret Thatcher, Ronald Regan, Woody Allen and many more €“ all sat at a table together ala The Last Supper, which dominates a whole wall. The statement is obviously if all the world€™s most recognisable people were to come together for a meal they would come to Maxwell€™s; and while I can€™t substantiate that claim, I know I could have done without his Holiness, the late Pope John Paul II, staring down at me as I quenched my thirst with the latest addition to Maxwell€™s €˜sharing€™ cocktail menu, The Paradise Punch. Vodka, Amaretto, Southern Comfort, grenadine and fresh orange and pineapple juice are mixed together with fresh fruit to create a deliciously smooth and fruity beverage. Served in a martini glass the size of a trophy, it takes two hands to lift it, two people to drink it and never fails to draw attention to your table. But If you€™re not in the mood for a cocktail that draws the attention of all diners in sight, Maxwell€™s have a wide selection of cocktails; from all your favourite classics €“ the Menu carries very nice details about the origins and year of creation €“ to their own signature cocktails, which can all be acquired at a great discount on Sunday€™s and Mondays during happy hour, which lasts all day, making it more like happy days! Away from cocktails they have a satisfactory wine selection €“ it€™s an American bar and restaurant, what do you really want? Sadly the selection of beers from the states is lacking in variety €“ you get the usual but nothing more niche. And no American diner is complete without a milkshake selection; and while theirs is not as wide or experimental as other Diners in town, Maxwell€™s do offer the classic flavours, plus malts and floats.

For a great overview of what Maxwell€™s have to offer in the way of starters, you can€™t go wrong with the Chicken platter. The wings are more akin to a condor than a chicken; smothered in a thick, smoky BBQ sauce that softens the crispy coating and seeps through into the tender white, moist chicken. The chicken crunch pieces arrive on your plate glowing; the batter is wonderfully golden and crunchy and coats more deliciously tender chicken. The hand scooped potato skins are equally delicious; a thick, chewy layer of grilled cheese forms one side of sandwich with a crunchy potato skin which lock in a layer of potato which is somehow still fluffy. The three layers provide such a wonderful contrast of texture, which is only bettered by the flavour explosion when you bite into them. But these three starters are destroyed by the quesadilla. The tortilla is toasted to perfection, the cheese is gooey without being runny, and there are actual lumps of chicken fighting to get out. And then there is the sensational homemade guacamole. It€™s textured, with chunks, of tomato and guacamole and tastes deliciously rich and tangy. An ideal accompaniment for a burger Speaking of burgers, Maxwell€™s boast one of the largest burgers in London in the form of their Stack Burger. This mammoth mouthful contains two quarter-pounder patties of grade A minced beef, topped with cheese, bacon, mushroom, tomato, lettuce, onion, gherkin and your choice of relish, and served on a sour dough bun; this is a mouthful of moist, medium rare beef that maintains its shape on the plate but falls apart in your mouth. And yet as delicious as the burger is €“ and it is €“ Maxwell€™s real speciality is there steaks. Cooked on a grill they call the Rolls Royce and overseen by Head Chef David, who has been part of the Maxwell€™s kitchen for over 25 years, their 8-ounce fillet steak is one of the finest steaks I have ever had the joy of eating. Because I am a steak snob, I urge you to get it rare. Cutting into it is like putting a hot knife through butter €“ spreadable butter! €“ and separating the meet is like unwrapping a work of art. The pink centre offers a beautiful contrast to the seared and seasoned outside, and the very centre is still slightly cool; a perfect rare steak. The meet literally melts in your mouth releasing those wonderful beef juices. Vegetarians, this is what you are missing! Maxwell€™s also offer a range of chicken, fish and ribs; from grilled, to seared to hickory smoked these are all authentic American dishes. Although I must say I found the rack of ribs lacking somewhat. The meat was succulent, but did not fall off the bone and there was a wow factor missing. This could be me wanting more from a rack of ribs than anyone can get, or it could have simply been the case that beside the sublime steak and behemoth burger they were simply overshadowed. If you have the appetite of a lumberjack€ or are a lumberjack are just really hungry for that matter, or just fancy something sweet, then Maxwell€™s are particularly proud of their Hot Chocolate and Pecan Nut Brownie; and so they should be. Baked fresh every morning, the brownie stands firm against the spoon, requiring a vigorous prod to cut through the sticky, chewy texture. Served warm, the bitterness of the brownie is counteracted perfectly by the sweetness of two scoops of ice cream (one chocolate and one vanilla) and a hearty drizzle of chocolate sauce that cover this moist, delicious chunk of chocolate goodness. I recently attended The Chocolate Festival in Vinoplois, and this brownie stands up against anything I tasted there. And yet, the brownie is eclipsed in size by Maxwell€™s signature Super Sundae. Served in a huge vase €“ expect more attention €“ it contains a whopping 18 ounces of chocolate (brownie, oreo, chocolate sauce) topped with hot fudge, ice cream, whipped cream and just in case it wasn€™t indulgent enough, four marshmallows. The Menu says, €˜dare to share?€™ and taking on this dish, particularly after two previous courses is certainly worthy of this warning.

For an enjoyable, indulgent and appetite destroying night out, Maxwell€™s is your answer. Perhaps the atmosphere is lacking that touch of Americana, but this comes down to taste; do you want to feel like you are in an authentic American diner, which can easily feel artificial? More importantly, the staff are amongst the most friendly, attentive and also knowledgeable I have ever encountered. The waiter had a passion for the food he was serving, and the manager a love for his work, which both came through in their service. A three-course meal at Maxwell€™s will cost you from £25 - £40 excluding drinks and service charge. They do however have a €˜Mad Monday€™ promotion that offers all main courses at half price. Maxwell€™s is located at 8-9 James Street, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8BH. For more information or to book a table go to http://www.maxwells.co.uk/ And if you are a fan of Maxwell€™s and believe it to be the best American Restaurant in London, remember to register your vote when the poll opens on 25/11/11.

Contributor
Contributor

Frustratingly argumentative writer, eater, reader and fanatical about film ‘n’ food and all things fundamentally flawed. I have been a member of the WhatCulture family since it was known as Obsessed with Film way back in the bygone year of 2010. I review films, festivals, launch events, award ceremonies and conduct interviews with members of the ‘biz’. Follow me @FilmnFoodFan In 2011 I launched the restaurant and food criticism section. I now review restaurants alongside film and the greatest rarity – the food ‘n’ film crossover. Let your imaginations run wild as you mull on what that might look like!